Monday, November 17, 2025

Japan showed me a quiet beauty in imperfection

 Japan showed me a quiet beauty in imperfection

Garry Linnell

14 Nov 2025

There's beauty in the ugly. You just have to slow down long enough to see it.


After several weeks in Japan I've come home a different man. Not smarter. Certainly not richer. But calmer and, perhaps for the first time, patient. It's as if that country whispers a lesson I and so many others are in too much of a rush to hear: that stillness delivers its own kind of wisdom.


Japan has a way of quietly rearranging you. At first it feels like a nation obsessed with precision and efficiency. Trains arrive on the second. People form queues so neat and orderly they could have been designed by an obsessive-compulsive architect. You can't find a bin anywhere yet the streets are spotless, with no graffiti to be seen.


Yet beneath all this punctuality and polish lies a quieter truth. The Japanese don't seek perfection because they know it doesn't exist. Instead they seek harmony, an idea captured in the philosophy of wabi-sabi - finding beauty in imperfection.


It's the opposite of everything we worship in the Western world.


We crave the flawless and the immediate: wrinkle-free faces, five-star service and Wi-Fi speeds that never falter. We edit, filter and curate our lives in a never-ending attempt to erase life's rough edges. 


Wabi-sabi, however, celebrates the flawed; a chipped bowl is to be revered not in spite of its crack but because of it. The weathered timber of a temple that has endured almost a thousand winters is to be admired, not replaced or concealed with paint.


Before you start rolling your eyes at yet another traveller returning in a Zen-like haze of calmness and serenity, Japan is far from flawless.


Its fertility rate dropped to a record low last year. Its ageing population - one in three are over 65 - is creating severe shortages in healthcare, manufacturing and agriculture.


Its productivity lags because of a rigid hierarchical workplace culture and a resistance to new technology (yes, the country that gave the world transistor radios and television sets still favours fax machines).


And there is growing opposition to more immigration and a backlash against tourism - despite it being vital to its post-pandemic economy.


I'm not sure I could live there - the population density in urban areas is close to claustrophobic, particularly late in the day when a tidal wave of identically-suited salarymen spills out of city offices, flooding the streets and subways.


But the place certainly seems to have cured, or at least tempered, my chronic impatience, probably because there's a collective patience in Japan that is hard to describe, let alone resist, until you feel it.


Queues are everywhere - from the small ramen bar that only seats 10 customers to the temples and museums where hundreds wait for admission. But not once did I hear an exasperated sigh, muttered complaint or the passive-aggressive shuffling of feet so beloved by Westerners to broadcast our suffering.


Mingled through this is an overwhelming sense of civility that goes beyond the bowing head of a cashier or the enthusiastic willingness of passers-by to help lost tourists. I'm not sure I've ever felt safer overseas than walking the streets of Tokyo at night. With more than 37 million people living in its greater precincts, Tokyo is the most populated city on the planet. Yet its crime rate remains remarkably low thanks to a culture that encourages self-restraint.


There's a much-loved Japanese saying - ‘Mono no aware’ - that is closely related to wabi-sabi. It refers to the bittersweet awareness that nothing lasts, that everything eventually passes and there is no point in prizing perfection over the flawed.


We often travel with the expectation that we will be changed by what we see. But sometimes the most profound experience comes from what we feel. Japan taught me that patience isn't a weakness. It's grace under the pressure of time.


Perhaps the souvenirs and snapshots are not the real gift of being able to travel, but the opportunity to quietly reprogram our habits. Despite Japan's many problems, after weeks of experiencing a society that values harmony over haste and manners over muttering, I learned a valuable lesson.


Perfection is brittle and overrated.


Patience, however, is beautiful.



Last day in Japan

A ‘sleep in’ (to 6:30 a.m.) - bliss! Certainly no rushing about for the first time this trip!! Some people have had early morning flights - ugh!!

Am lying in bed reading the article Bill has sent me ‘Japan showed me a quiet beauty in imperfection’ (I have put this into a separate post on this blog because you have to subscribe to read this).


https://www.canberratimes.com.au/profile/1529/garry-linnell


Much of this is true. I immediately thought of the people on our tour who commented on the ‘Lost in Translation’ film that it was SLOW in parts; I believe they had missed an essential truism about this country.


And yes, I am aware that we have certainly had a full agenda here! But we have also enjoyed the peace and serenity as we did the other evening watching the small crowd at Sumpo Castle Gardens holding their lanterns ready to launch them into the night sky, little lights bobbing about.


And we both agree that walking the historic Nakasendō samurai trail was a highlight: an opportunity to experience peace and tranquillity in rural Japan and a taste of an authentic traditional way of life, fast disappearing.


However, despite what the article suggests, I couldn’t escape observing a weariness: people asleep on trains even first thing in the day, leaning onto fellow travellers (and miraculously waking to exit at their station, or one presumed it was the correct station …) - like the guy next to me at 10:15 a.m. today as we travel into Yokohama.


So yes we went back to Yokohama - specifically Ishikawachō - where we went to China Town the night we arrived into Tokyo to join the tour. I had wanted to see the Red Brick Warehouse and we ran out of time, energy and light to do it back then.


We had a leisurely departure from the hotel (in any event we wanted to avoid the crush of peak hour), said some more goodbyes to fellow travellers, left our luggage and set off with a quick stop at the Don Quixote shop (that sells so much stuff = rubbish) at the station.


When we got out at Ishikawachō, I noticed a sign to the Yamate Italian Garden. ‘Che?’ I said. A shortish walk (uphill!) and would you believe it: we entered a European paradise with views for miles around and the most gorgeous garden AND (!) the residence of Sadatsuchi Uchida, a diplomat of the Meiji Government. It was built in 1910: a two-storey wooden building in the American Victorian style. 


What a bonus!




It was a steep downhill walk along a narrow stepped lane and then we were at sea level again! The wind has come up and autumn leaves are swirling madly around.


We pass the Yokohama Stadium and some extraordinary architecture.

 



And reach the port of Yokohama - and the Red Brick Warehouse. 


It is quite warm - 19 deg C. Only a couple of weeks to winter - the world has gone quite mad!



The warehouse was a shipping hub and customs house but now is a hall for shops and restaurants. We had a yummy waffle thingy each and then set off for the station via China Town where we got a beer and gyoza for lunch. Definitely NO 7-Eleven sandwiches today!!


Back to the hotel and off again with our luggage out to Narita Airport which is where we are now waiting to board.  The journey out by train is quite long - over one and a half hours; train is packed. It is 4 pm when we arrive and the long shadows are stretching across the fields.


I watch the sun set from an observation deck: the land of the setting sun. But technically, that apparently refers to China …


In an historic 7th century correspondence addressed to the Chinese Emperor, Prince Shôtoku of Japan notably described Japan as the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ and China as the ‘Land of the Setting Sun’, symbolically framing Japan as the origin of a new era while subtly challenging China's perceived dominance.


Check in and passport control were super fast; the shopping is quite mad: people spending like money is endless. And food! I’ve never come across a country like it: eat, eat, eat!


And Starbucks(!). Everywhere. They even have a big outlet at the departure gate!


Sayōnara Japan.


Walked 10.9 kms.


XXXXXX


Not much in the way of films on the flight but I did watch ‘The Last Samurai’. Very violent. And I’m not a fan of Tom Cruise. But it’s not bad.


Breakfast was inedible.


Buses replace trains. Everything is running late. Welcome home to Australia.





Sunday, November 16, 2025

Shizuoka to Tokyo via Fuji (again)

Just THE most beautiful morning: back to the castle. Glorious. No tourists, just joggers; and one fella enjoying a peaceful brekky in the park.








Picked up MF-san on my next pass by the hotel and headed for this amazing coffee place. Oh my goodness. 


Hit the road again. Last tour day today.


Such a clear day - excellent views of Mt Fuji; we are on the SE side, by the Pacific Ocean.  We have been so lucky.


We stop at Fujinomiya for the Mt Fuji World Heritage Centre. I was super impressed. It features an immersive walk up five floors via a gentle, spiral ramp lined with panoramic exhibits of a simulated climb up Mt Fuji. 


At the top is a great observation deck.



It is a magnificent building, resembling an inverted Mount Fuji and made from a grid of wood: designed by Shigeru Ban, a world-renowned architect who was also behind the construction of the Centre Pompidou-Metz in Paris (first one: not my photo).



Mt Fiji has been the inspiration for many artists including van Gogh (as the background for ‘Portrait of Père Tanguy’. I love this print of ‘The Great Wave Off Kanagawa’ by Katsushika Hokusai used for the cover of the music score for Claude Debussy’s symphony ‘La Mer’ (1905).


Back on the bus we pass Mt Fuji again as we travel towards Tokyo; it is now covered in cloud!!!


We stop at (we are told) the biggest rest-stop in Japan. It is quite mad. Thank goodness for sandwiches already bought this morning from 7-Eleven. More vending machines.


Then onto Tokyo and the Imperial Palace. It was such a beautiful afternoon and by this stage, the light was lovely. We arrived about 3 pm but the sun is setting just after 4:30 so you have to make the most of the short days. The streets are lined with gingko trees.


Mr Chimuro-san had difficulty finding somewhere to park the bus and it looked like this visit might be aborted - but finally something suitable was found.


The Imperial Palace is located on the former site of Edo Castle, now a large park area surrounded by moats and massive stone walls. 



The inner grounds of the Imperial Palace are not open to the public except for two days: New Year and Emperor’s Birthday.




We walked to view the Nijubashi, two bridges that form an entrance to the inner palace grounds. The stone bridge in front is called Meganebashi (Eyeglass Bridge).


Standing guard in the outer gardens is a towering bronze samurai on horseback. Kusunoki Masashige or DaiNankô was a Japanese military commander and samurai of the Kamakura period remembered as the ideal loyal samurai.


We have a farewell dinner planned at Daimaru near Tokyo Station. When I found out where we were going, I was thrilled as Tokyo Station was on my to-do list. Fabulous evening. Not at all cold.


We had a little free time before dinner so we flew through the massive station to the Marunouchi side, ducking and weaving through hundreds of people. It actually is referred to as the Marunouchi Building: it has a magnificent European-style red-brick facade, built in 1914, and designed by Kingo Tatsuno, a pioneer of modern Japanese architecture. I was stoked!


Daimaru department store is very high-end. Dinner is great - buffet; lots and lots of food.


Nice views too of the city below.


On our drive back to our hotel at Kamata near Yokohama (where we started our trip) we pass through the classy Ginza district, all lit up with lovely Xmas lights (not bad for a non-Christian country).


So we have driven over 3000 kms and many thanks to our driver and guide. 


We don’t fly out till tomorrow night so have a free day tomorrow. 


Almost forgot! Walked 13 kms.