Magome to Tsumago

Another yummy breakfast: a Japanese-Western hybrid one.

We left just after 8 a.m. (and got to see what the outside of our inn looked like; never got a chance when we arrived in the dark yesterday!!).

The Nakasendō way had a total of 69 post towns, known as juku, which served as resting points for travellers during the Edo period. Some of the most famous and well-preserved post towns are Narai, Tsumago and Magome located in the Kiso Valley. Today we travel between Magome and Tsumago.

It was a short walk of about a km to Magome post town. The hydrangeas are pretty much finished, but there was this nice one as we walked through Magome.

The town is the birthplace of a famous Japanese writer, Tōson Shimazaki in 1872 at an old honjin (inn); his most notable work is the semi-autobiographical ‘Before the Dawn’. The inn is now a museum dedicated to his work and there are many of his original manuscripts here - fascinating.

We had a lovely time getting food for lunch to have later along the trail, including some yummy oyaki dumplings made of wheat and buckwheat flour; we got some filled with Nozawana greens, eggplant, meat. At another shop we got a chestnut oyaki each. Chestnuts are in season and are everywhere: even chestnut icecream.

We also got a great coffee from the very popular Hillbilly Cafe. We were there early and managed to 'snag' a seat.

From here, it was a climb out of town past waterwheels, a waterfall, up stone steps and through bamboo forests. 

There are more Autumn colours on display!

And there were plenty of bear bells to ring!

Unlike yesterday, there was a lot of nature trail walking. Lots of people too, probably being a Saturday as well as it being a relatively short stretch of the Nakasendō, and that it is also a very attractive section.

At the top of the pass it was 790 m and we headed down to an old tateba or teahouse (Ichikoku-tochi teahouse) which is over 300 years old and is run by local volunteers who provide sweets, tea and information.

We enjoyed our lunch about midday on a bench outside with a lovely cup of green tea.

From here the walk continued through forest of cypress (some very old), cedar and Japanese umbrella pine along the Sawara river. There were some lovely waterfalls and finally a view of the Kiso Valley towards Tsumago.

We arrive mid-afternoon after 11 kms to our accommodation at O-tsumago.

Our inn is about 150 years old and a traditional mountain home with a large irori open hearth and ancient wood darkened by the soot and resin from its flames.

After a nice cuppa green tea and some snacks, I headed off for a further 4 kms hike to Tsumago post town and back.

I was back just in time to enjoy a nice hot bath and dinner at 6 o’clock.

And after a day that had been forecast for rain, we were very lucky to get no more than the odd sprinkle and now as I go to bed, it is raining. I can hear it in the street outside. Lovely sound when you are snug in bed (futon) but doesn’t augur well for walking tomorrow …

Total 15.4 kms for me with the extra I did this afternoon.