Kanazawa to Kurobe

We had a semi-decent departure time for the shinkansen at 8:18 but still got up early so we could enjoy a coffee from the espresso machine at reception. Well ahead of schedule so relaxed over this in the pleasant foyer area and then had a lovely walk to the station - nice day, stopped for a few pikkies.

Pleasant-looking place: Kanazawa. Looking forward to coming back and especially pleased we’ve done the gardens as our tour has confirmed the gardens are not included in the schedule - so we have ticked that off.

Printed off tickets at the station like a pro (🙂) and had time to shop for some omiyage (regional souvenirs).

Train was in probably 15 mins before departure so we board (like pros 👍) and cool our heels on board.

Love this sign in the toilet of the shinkansen! Can you imagine what an emergency stop is like in a train going this fast (260 kms/hr)???? (You can be sure I was careful to press the blue button!😳). 

I didn’t think we could make the 12 min. transfer from Kurobe-Unazukionsen Stn (such names!!) to the Shin-Kurobe Stn a short walk away AND buy the tickets (cash only) for the private line but we did!! The staff there were ready for the onslaught of customers! 

Otherwise it meant waiting an hour …

The little train is PACKED!! Beautiful day - scenic trip: we pass paddy fields and tiny villages and there is snow on the mountains (13 deg C).

On arrival into tiny Unazukionsen, we dropped our bags off at the hotel and went exploring but ended up 'off-piste' when we/I headed towards an interesting-looking (to me) foot bridge across the river  - to no avail - probably 207 steps in this lot - down and back 😩. The bridge had been abandoned. So had the hotel where the steps down began: it went into bankruptcy in March this year if you can believe Google Translate.

The Kurobe hydropower museum was interesting: the Kansai electric power company (KEPCO) owns and operates four dams and twelve hydroelectric power plants on the Kurobe River (one of the fastest-flowing rivers in Japan, 85 kms long), including Kurobe Dam which is the tallest dam in Japan. Interestingly, Woodside is listed as having an interest.

We did some train-spotting and walking through a long tunnel through to the Unazuki Dam and later (on the train), we pass another - the Dashidaira Dam - where we had to wait for monkeys on the line here.

The Kurobe Gorge Railway is what we are here for. It is a very picturesque trip with the red bridges spanning the turquoise blue river gushing along; a blue bridge - the Atobiki bridge at Kuronagi; an enormous number of tunnels, waterfalls and the autumn colours everywhere. The line ends at Nekomata and goes no further due to damage caused by the Noto Peninsula earthquake in 2024 (672 deaths).

And it became FREEZING!! 11 deg. Ended up wearing beanie, parka AND puffer jacket!

On our return, along the street, is a public hot spring foot bath which helped to take the chill off when we got back! Now 8 deg C. Sooo relaxing!

The hotel tonight is the last one I have organised for this trip and, boy, what a hotel! 

The onsen is very luxurious in both amenity and proportion and as you go in there is a lounge area where I discovered a beer dispenser, mixed nuts and iceblocks. I had a matcha iceblock and a beer, nearly destroying the dispensing apparatus in the process because when I put my cup on the top level, it suddenly ‘collapsed’ and I thought I was being very clever (and quick-witted) when I relocated the cup to the lower level and in the process got beer everywhere.

I waited for MF-san who I knew was on the ‘go-slows’ to show him this marvellous 'add-on' to our stay and decided to go back up to the room in case he was deciding on a shower instead. But he was almost ready and when I showed him this facility, he couldn’t believe it. He used the beer dispenser correctly of course - the top level doesn’t ‘collapse’: it leans into a 45 deg angle so the beer can pour correctly. Ahhhh!! And it’s nice and COLD.

Mind you, I’m not sure the correct procedure is to have a beer BEFORE the onsen …

I’ve taken quite a liking to the Kirin beer (even though I don’t call myself a beer drinker).

Outside the actual onsen itself (in this same lounge area) was a wall of lotions, brushes, oils, head bands - all gratis - and another wall with about 8 different sets of shampoo and conditioner pairings that you could dispense amounts into little cups.

My hair didn’t actually need washing - but how could I resist choices of L’Occitane, The Botanist, ReFa, etc. I felt like washing my hair 8 times with each!!

The onsen was lovely. MF-san reported back that he also went into an outside one (which I didn’t see) but it was down 30 steps and freezing cold outside. 

On the way out of mine was a sauna which I sat in for 30 secs. Then dried my hair with one of the hair dryers available and helped myself to skin lotion. 

I have never felt so pampered. Never been so clean I suspect 🙂.

I went looking for MY basket in the pre-onsen room (where you undress) and couldn’t find it. Now I know no-one steals stuff in Japan (at least, so I have been told); mind you, they DO have lockers and the sign says to watch your valuables. I thought who would want my dirty undies?? 

I was looking in the wrong place. Must have been that pre-onsen beer …

It’s been like this all the way in Japan - incredible amenities - and stuff! Hand towels, toothbrushes, razors, skin cleanser, hairbrushes, lotions, pyjamas. I don’t know how they afford it. Mind you, we don’t take the pj’s!!

And you select from a range of kimonos to wear about the place including to dinner. 

Dinner was buffet-eat-as-much-as-you-like. Shabu-shabu:  pork loin and bamboo shoots and other vegetables; vinegared rice (yum); slice of salmon on a block of sticky rice; fried Shanghai noodles; Toyama black Ramen soup; fried chicken in black starch sauce. It goes on and on …

Plus help-yourself alcohol - quite mad!

I’ve decided I’m not a fan of shabu-shabu.

MF-san of course got stuck into the seafood - the squid with roasted vegies was his favourite.

Dessert:

Back to futons tonight.

Walked 9.4 kms; should have walked that AFTER dinner!