Ritsurin Gardens and Kobe

Well, at breakfast it was the usual bun fight even though I was there at 6:13 a.m.

We headed off after packing to walk along the river past Shukkeien Garden to a cafe with a wonderful coffee.

It was a most beautiful morning and we sat and watched the world go by - lots of kids on bikes or walking. In fact, the bicycle traffic is quite mad and we ducked and weaved through the bikes as we walked quickly back to the hotel for our departure time.

Nice to see a different part of the place. It is a very pleasant city. Could stay longer.

Today we visit Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu. Enroute we pass Onomichi where we cycled on the Shimanami Kaido a few weeks ago.

We have a brief rest stop and eat our momiji manju - did a taste test; the ones bought yesterday where we saw them being made were much fluffier. Both lots were nice 😀.

The bus swings right near Kurashiki where we stayed two nights (21-22 October) before our walk. 

We cross the long Seto Ohashi Bridge (13 kms long) from Honshu Island to Shikoku Island: it showcases three forms of structural technology: part cable-stayed, part suspension and part truss bridge. It is the world's longest two-tiered bridge system - very scenic.

We arrived at Takamatsu for our visit to the Ritsurin Kōen (Chestnut Grove Garden) which was created by the feudal lord Takamatsu in 1625.  Mt. Shiunzan acts as the background for the six ponds that have been skilfully combined into one large strolling-style garden. It is also said to have over 1,000 pine trees. The garden exemplifies the Japanese phrase of ippo ikkei ‘one step, one view’; a change in scenery with every step allows you to become charmed by something else no matter when you visit.

We ditched the group and walked around the park at our pace. I was after the Kikugetsu-tei teahouse. We probably won’t get to a tea-making ceremony in Japan so this is possibly the next best thing: a cup of green leaf tea presented by a woman in kimono; we sat on tatami mats to drink this with a nice sweet whilst looking out at the gardens. A real highlight. Very Zen.

A beautiful spot and our group went past and we could hear Kubo saying this is a lovely spot but ‘no time on this tour …’

We caught up with the group shortly after and in any event were first back on the bus …

In Takamatsu, Udon noodles are THE THING - and another highlight of the day was a noodle-making class!!! (I was told my noodles made me the STAR!!).

This was followed by an udon noodle meal (which we accompanied with a Kirin beer). 

We cross several bridges from Shikoku Island: to Oge Island then Awaji Island (via the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge: the world's longest suspension bridge almost 4 kms long) then back to Honshu - the main island - to reach Kobe by about 6:30 p.m.

A rest stop with facilities for the little critters! Notice the high chair!

Kobe (pop. about 1.5 million), city on Osaka Bay, renown for its signature marbled beef.

However … I had plans to visit the Kitano-cho area. MF-san was NOT thrilled.

After checking in, we set off immediately to catch a train to Kobe-Sannomiya Stn - it was a Limited Express so we were there in no time. Goggle Maps said to continue from here by metro but after seeking assistance from station staff who couldn’t work things out from my Google Map, we decided to walk instead. The station was gaily decorated!

We actually were in the heart of downtown Kobe here and it was super buzzy.

We walked to the Kitano district which is where many foreign merchants and diplomats settled after the Port of Kobe was opened to foreign trade in the second half of the 19th century. More than a dozen of the former mansions, known as Ijinkan, remain in the area. 

Even though it was 6:30 at night - and dark - we could see some of these; and as we climbed the hill (with a most unenthusiastic MF-san dragging his feet and complaining of the cold - I ended up sacrificing my puffer jacket to drape over him) we came to a viewpoint out over the city lights. 

Wandering back down, I set my sights on locating the synagogue. Kobe is where the book ‘Star on the Grave’ - which I read before departing Australia - was set; the Jews came here on transit visas from Poland via Lithuania. The local Japanese diplomat defied his own government and secretly issued thousands of visas to desperate Jewish refugees.

The Jewish community in Kobe, established in 1912, is the only one in Japan operating over 100 years. 

I was super thrilled to find the Ohel Shelomoh Synagogue and was taking a photo when the rabbi’s wife drove up and invited us in.

They are a lovely young couple - from Israel; they were cleaning up after a shabbat meal they had prepared for people who want kosher food.

I asked how they were faring in the current environment and they said the Japanese were very respectful and helpful. 

We set off back down the hill in search of a meal ourselves - plan A to get one nearby; plan B to get one in the station area near our hotel as suggested by our tour guide.

We had come up the hill through a very up-market area and decided to go down via one of the back streets to avoid tourist traps. Found this lovely little sign;

At $A100 for a 300 g Kobe steak, we had thought we’d probably pass. But the board outside a little restaurant (and little it was: only 5 tables) lured us in and on opening the door, three of the tables were taken and at one, a couple were drinking a glass of red each. ‘This will do me’ I thought.

We compromised and had a Kobe burger. Oh wow! Delish!! It came beautifully presented with a couple of vegetables, an orange and Gorgonzola sauce, and some yummy bread. Wow! No chopsticks either.

A glass each of a 2023 Zinfandel from Puglia (!) - oh yum. And the chef and the front of house girl were lovely.

Google Maps delivered us back to the station and we found our way (eventually) through the maze of signs, escalators, stairs and people to the platform and our train arrived a minute later as per Google Maps and that was it!

What a night!!

Walked 11.7 kms.